Centro Historico, Roma Norte

I started my day with a coffee and a catch up with Misha and Alanna. I ventured out with plenty of time to spare. Getting into the elevator of my home for the week, the buttons weren’t exactly clear but I figured it has to be pretty universal. I hit E1, and got to a parking garage, and the buttons for E2, S1 and S2 did the same. I went back to a couple, not recognizing anything from last night. Finally I wandered around one of the parking garage floors and found a door with an exit arrow painted on the floor, and I could see through the garage that it led to the sidewalk. I opened the door and the loudest security alarm I’ve ever heard went off! I quickly closed that door, got back up to the apartment and demanded Misha escort me outside. After the debacle to get outside, I then waited 20 minutes for an Uber that wasn’t moving, to then I reaIized I could “switch” drivers and got one right away. I was now behind schedule by a few minutes.

Traffic here is always busy, and Misha’s apartment isn’t the most central so the Uber took about 40 minutes. Motorcyclists glide through all of the traffic and take the middle lines to be their own lanes. Along the roadsides were many vendors, out early and selling food and snacks like fruit kebabs, corn flakes in plastic cups, different kinds of jellies/jellos, and tacos. Plastic cups are everywhere.

I got out a block early since traffic was at a standstill and I found Churreria El Moro, a churro shop with many locations whose churros happen to be vegan. I ordered the standard four churros in a bag, and a hot chocolate made with Leche Vegetal. The counter server was in a tiny plexiglass box taking my order, rolling her eyes at my lack of Español, and eating a breakfast of what looked like rice and beans, on the job. Many workers were standing around in the back, and greeting customers. They have as many staff on that I would on a Friday night, and this was a Monday morning when the majority of the city is closed up.

My churros order was fulfilled instantly, but the chocolate took about 10 minutes to make. Once in hand, I turned the 15 minute walk to my next destination into 12 minutes as I sped past gorgeous old buildings, basilicas, and many workers starting their days.

I found the tour guide of the free walking tour, and they told me to relax, we don’t start for another 20 minutes! So I enjoyed my churros in the Zocalo, in front of the Metropolitan Cathedral.

Once the tour began, we learned about this plaza. Home to free concerts, protests, and everything in between, we were standing in the heart of Mexico City where the Aztecs founded their civilization. The Cathedral was built over 240 years, and this is made clear with the different styles of architecture used during the tenure of its build. It’s also sinking; the sides are lower than the centre and the ground around it looks like an earthquake had just hit.

We wandered to an archaeological dig site truly just around the corner. In the 90’s, historians found pyramids under the city, and demolished buildings to excavate the ruins. It was really neat seeing that smack in the middle of the city. We learned that the people of Mexico wished for buildings not to be ruined just to dig up old sites, so now they create these tunnels underneath the city and show the ruins through windows in the streets.

Our tour was about 2 hours long, completing one big square and seeing several plazas, the tile house, street food vendors, businesses, and important landmarks. We also got to try some local Tepache, a fermented drink made of pineapple, orange and tamarind, served right out of a barrel.

After the tour, we said goodbye to new acquaintances and I wandered to my next destination: lunch. On the way I passed through this gorgeous park, Alameda Central, where I couldn’t help but take a seat and people watch. Street vendors are everywhere here, it’s a market lovers dream!

I easily found Vegamo, where I sat outside in the sun, journaled, and ate the most delicious food. I ordered a corn saison, which was served barely chilled. I ordered a radish and hearts of palm salad with Mexican herbs that was served over this incredible acidic and herby sauce. It came with tortillas to dip the salad with, and I don’t think I can ever go back.travellerspoin.com/205903/FDF928E6-5A15-4357-B3E6-1B2FC9EB5950.jpeg]
My main was enchiladas with mole. The enchiladas had carrot and gourd, and they were swimming in chocolatey spicy sauce and topped with a pickled fennel. No bite was left behind!

From there I wandered just around the corner to the Mercado de Artesanias la Ciudadela, a large market filled with trinkets, art, beads, pottery and souvenirs. When I say large, I mean aisles that felt like tunnels I may never find my way out of large. I loved it! I bought nothing. This was the place to haggle and I wasn’t in the mood.

After this I followed my plan to some thrift/vintage shops, and bought myself a cute little pair of earrings while it promptly started pouring and thundering. I walked in the rain a little around Roma Norte, but felt it was best to call it and get some rest at home. During my Uber home there were street performers addressing the car at many intersections. Jugglers, jugglers on unicycles, painted men, you name it. When I got home Archer and I had a little nap.

Feeling rested, I got ready to head out again. I got dropped off at this little pool/fountain, and couple help but notice the “skip” drivers waiting for their orders.

Dinner at Ojo De Maiz was delicious. The waiter spoke zero English and I didn’t get exactly what I wanted but that’s my own fault for not trying to speak Spanish. I ordered the stuffed pumpkin flowers, they were again swimming in this delicious, mildly spiced, tomato warm salsa. We do not do enough with sauce in Canada.

Next I had the purple banana molotes with vegan chorizo and seed cheese, in a green mint and pepper sauce. These were spicier than the last dish, interesting, the seed cheese was nice, and I think the chorizo was TVP.

Along with my glass of wine I was stuffed. I couldn’t help but notice they had a cocktail menu they hadn’t shared with me. I was also interested in dessert but I knew I couldn’t fit it in. They had a corn pancake with popcorn ice cream. What was I thinking not saving room for that? Instead I ordered the Saint Sauco - mezcal, St Germain, plaintain syrup, guava, with beans and lemon. I have no idea what “with beans” meant, but I was curious, and though I still don’t know after trying it, but it was a really fun and unique cocktail.

The chef was doing everything here except taking orders. She was soliciting folks from the street to come in, bartending, photographing her bartending, fixing wobbly tables, running food, and running back to the kitchen to make food. I get the vibe it’s her place and she’s a rockstar.

We made plans to meet at Licorería Limantour, the 4th best bar in the world. I walked through the streets of Roma Norte to the sound of birds, the tall trees and huge leaves surrounding me. It was dark, I was alone, and it was magic. There was some sort of group dancing in a park, and I passed through roundabouts with monuments and lights. Gorgeous place!

Finding the bar, there were several groups outside. I asked, “Por Tres”, and he said, “uno momento” which I took as a good sign, and then Misha and Alanna appeared from out of their Uber. They had just finished dinner at Pujol, which they had long waited for reservations for. They each had 2 cocktails and a six-course meal and I think it cost them the equivalent of monthly rent in many countries. They enjoyed the 9-year old mole the best!

We were sat right away, surprising all of us. The menu was in a little book, describing the cocktails and even showing the glassware they came in. The first one I had was I think called Tom Tomberry. It was strawberry, strawberry vinegar, mezcal, and a few other things I can’t remember. It was served in a tiny glass, the same ones we use for ice cream at Virtuous Pie, with a clear ice cube which seemed chisled into a cube, not moulded, a piece of basil and a frozen, macerated cherry tomato on top. It was stunning! The others were beautiful too, some with edible flours and teas. We ordered a second round, mine was a white port with apricot and vanilla, it came in a squared-off champagne flute and it tasted like candy. I bought the drinks as small payment for my accommodations. When it hit my credit card bill this morning it was just over half of what I would have paid for those cocktails back home!

Ubered home, went straight to bed, and was up early this morning to head to Teotihuacan.